Image Source: Austrian Wine: OeWM_Robert-Herbst, Vulkanland

This article was written after the judging competition in April 2024, organised by the Sauvignon Collection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, while attending as a wine judge during this time.

I always have been a sucker for volcanos, what they are like, how the environment is surrounding a volcano and of course its soil, like I have several jars with soil at home, brought back from visiting several volcanos in the past decade. The Etna and Vesuvio (both in Italy) are amongst them. And now I had the chance to visit Steiermark’ Vulkanland, where even the name reminds you of ancient volcanos that left their mark in the region. It is an incredible sight, everywhere you look. It is Steiermark’ largest of the three regions when it comes to total area, but the second largest when it comes to vineyard plantings a total of 1,657ha under vine. Vulkanland is the eastern region from Steiermark. 

I was so incredibly excited, when stepping on the bus, to go and visit the region. Besides the fact that I have never been to Austria before, when being on my wine region “must visit list”, I was full of joy to hear that I could judge Sauvignon Blanc again with Concours Mondial in April 2024. A moment that I will never forget. Let me take you on a short trip down memory lane, and explaining this incredible versatile  region and its winemakers, and even more memorable wines that we’ve got to taste, like the Krispels B1 wine, the “B” stands for Basalt, keep reading, I’ll explain it shortly. 

A Region Born from Fire

In the southeastern corner of Austria lies Vulkanland Steiermark. Often overshadowed by Austria’s more known wine regions like Wachau or Burgenland, Vulkanland is a place where ancient geological forces and innovative winemaking techniques converge to create wines of extraordinary character and complexity. This region, where vines grow on the fertile remnants of extinct volcanoes, offers an experience unlike any other I’ve seen before. Among its many treasures is the prestigious classification of "Eruption wines," a label that signifies not just a high level of quality, but also a deep connection to the region's fiery past.

Image Source: Wein Steiermark

Vulkanland has nine viticultural districts

• Oststeiermark – 325ha: Oststeiermark’s primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Weissburgunder. Their soils are predominantly weathered volcanic rock (basalt & tuff), sedimentary soils, sand and silty clay, even a little schist. Growing altitudes here are up to 570m above sea level, at the slopes of the subalpine Ringkogel.  
• Riegersburg – 298 ha: Riegenburgs primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Weissburgunder. Their soils are predominantly sedimentary stone (sandy gravel with alluvial deposits, silt & clay, weathered volcanic rock (tuff). One of the subregions landmarks is the Riegersburg 11th-century old castle that imposes the region quite distinctively. 
• Gleichenberg – 90ha: Gleichenberg’s primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon. Their soils are limestone-free, weathered volcanic rock, calcareous & limestone-free sedimentary soils. The landscape is significant because of its almost 600-metre- high Gleichenberger Kogel an extinct volcano of several million years old. There are numerous small vineyards favouring the distinctive microclimates that are situated here at elevations between 300-400m.
• Kapfenstein- 73 ha: Kapfenstein’ primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Weissburgunder. The soils found here are primarily weathered volcanic rock, laced with olivines (source of plutonic rock, originating from magma) and sedimentary soils. The landscape is dominated by the high plateau of the extinct Kapfenstein volcano and its distinctive 11th-century old Kapfenstein Castle. The region is also home to a smaller volcanic cone which is quite steep called the Kuruzzenkogel.
• Sankt Anna – 140ha: Sankt Anna’s primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon. The soils in Sankt Anna are mainly sedimentary, partly calcareous and weathered volcanic rock. The region has a striking hillside, the Stradener Kogel, being one of the largest extinct volcanoes in the region. It functions as a protective barrier from the cooling weather conditions of the mid-Alpine, Styrian north. Vineyards are planted at altitudes between 300- 390 metres above sea level. 
• Straden – 166ha: Straden’ primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris). The soils are predominantly deep sedimentary soils, partly calcareous and weathered volcanic rock. Tis region lies on the gentle slopes at the foothills of the extinct Stradener Kogel (Volcano). The vineyards are scattered around at elevations between 280-440 meters on steep slopes and high plateaus. 
• Sankt Peter – 125ha: Sankt Peters primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Weissburgunder. Its soils are predominantly sedimentary soils and is partly calcareous. The region is characterised by rolling hills and valleys with hilly to steep vineyards, orchards and forests and fields. 
• Tieschen – 97ha: Tieschens primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and all grapes of the Pinot family. The soils are mainly weathered volcanic rock and sedimentary soils like gravel, sand and clay. The vineyards are located on the foothills of extinct volcanoes and face the village of Tieschen. 
• Klöch – 179ha: Klöchs primary varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. The soils here are predominantly weathered volcanic rock, basalt in particular. Its vineyards are grouped around the extinct volcano “Klöchberg”. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, overview of several tasted Subregional wines.

Geology and Climate: A Terroir Forged by Volcanoes 

Vulkanland Steiermark, also known simply as Vulkanland, is characterised by its unique volcanic soils, which were formed millions of years ago by intense volcanic activity. Vulkanland has the greatest variety of soil types that can be found in Steiermark. They vary greatly from calcareous to almost limestone-free. They are characterised by sandy materials and clay, as well as gravels and volcanic deposits. 

The region's rolling hills and steep slopes at the foothills of their many extinct volcanos are dotted with basalt and tuff, remnants of these ancient eruptions, which impart a distinctive minerality to the wines. These volcanic soils are rich in minerals, particularly iron and magnesium and basalt, which are essential for vine health and have their influence on the flavour profile of the grapes. This mineral-rich soil imparts a unique structure and complexity to the wines, often giving the wine a flinty or smoky note. 

The climate of Vulkanland is equally significant. Situated at the crossroads of the Pannonian Plain and the Styrian Hills, Vulkanland benefits from a mix of warm days and cool nights, a condition ideal for the slow and even ripening of grapes. The warm winds from the east help in developing the sugar content in the grapes, while the cool breezes from the Alps ensure that the wines maintain a crisp acidity.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, from left to right: Basalt, Tuff, Calcareous soil, and Sandy/Clay soils

Grape Varieties

The region grows profoundly white grape varieties, up to 84% of the total area under vine, the other 258ha are planted with red varieties. Vulkanland is home to a diverse range of grape varieties, each thriving in Vulkanland’ unique terroir. Among the white varieties, Welschriesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Sauvignon Blanc, and the indigenous Gelber Muskateller are prominent. These grapes all produce wines with vibrant acidity, pronounced aromatics, and a mineral backbone which can be said is the true hallmark of Vulkanland wines.

Red varieties also find a home here, with Zweigelt and the indigenous Sonstige Rot and the Blauer Wildbacher being the most common. Vulkanland red wines are known for their depth, complexity, and the distinctive smoky undertones that come from the volcanic soils.

1. Welschriesling - 305ha/ 18% 
⁠2. Weissburgunder - 292ha/ 18%
⁠3. Sauvignon Blanc - 188ha/ 11%
⁠4. Muskateller – 143ha/ 8.7%
⁠5. Zweigelt – 141ha/8.5%
⁠6. Morillon (Chardonnay) – 114ha/ 6.9%
⁠10. Sonstige Rot – 41ha/2.5%
⁠11. Traminer – 38ha/2.3%
⁠15. Blauer Wildbacher – 24ha/ 1.5%

Image Source: Austrian Wine, Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc, Morillon (the local name for Chardonnay), and Traminer are particularly noteworthy.  Sauvignon Blanc: Often described as the “King of Vulkanland,” this varietal thrives in the region’s cool climate, producing wines with intense aromatics, ranging from citrus and green apple to more exotic notes of passionfruit and gooseberry.

Morillon: Is typically vinified in a style that emphasises its freshness and minerality. The wines often exhibit notes of stone fruit, citrus, and a characteristic flinty finish.

Traminer: Known for its aromatic complexity, Traminer from Vulkanland is celebrated for its rich, floral bouquet with notes of lychee, rose petals, and spice. The volcanic soils add an additional layer of minerality and depth.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret 

"Eruption Wines", The Birth of a New Classification

When at an overview tasting of several winemakers from Vulkanland at Weingut Krispel, I saw an interesting marking “Eruption Winzer”, something I haven’t heard of before. This instantly reminds me that even when studying WSET Diploma, I still know so little, making me feel humble and excited at the same time. I’m wondering off, back to this interesting marking. So, I’ve asked what Eruption Winzer stands for exactly. 

Quote: “Connected by their irrepressible passion for their craft, 9 winemakers, 9 characters, 9 styles, one passion: wine. Nine glorious winemakers from Vulkanland region have joined together to form a strong winegrowers’ community and are nevertheless extremely versatile and different in character and their expression in wine. Common denominators are the love of wine or the establishment of a quality standard for single vineyard classification.” – Thus, Eruption Winzer.

The System of Origin (DAC) for Styria

From the 2018 vintage, the new system of origin (DAC) brings clear rules of origin and production for the Styrian wine and strengthens the characteristics of each region. 

• Steiermark Wein: Light enjoyment and drinking pleasure
• Gebietswein DAC: Clear typicity of the grape-variety with a regional touch. 
• Ortswein DAC: In the expression the essence of the village
• Riedenwein DAC: An excellent vineyard that has future potential to become an Este Lage or Grosse Lage.
• Erste Lage (Premier Cru): A wine with an always independent character and ideal conditions in terms of vineyard, mesoclimate and winemaker. Erste Lage are: Ried Stradener Rosenberg, Ried Neusetzberg and Ried Kaar gebirge. 
• Grosse Lage (Grand Cru): The most expressive wines with the greatest depth and the best shelf life of Vulkanland. Grosse Lage Ried Hoch-strandl. 

“Eruption Winzer” or in English "Eruption wines" represent the pinnacle of winemaking in Vulkanland Steiermark. In June 2021, a group the 9 winemakers decided to have their own vineyard quality classification system registered under private law. Quality was assessed for the first time in Austria by an external certification institute. The prestigious LACON GmbH classified the vineyards of the Eruption Winzer in the categories “Erste Lage” (Premier Cru) and “Grosse Lage” (Grand Cru). 

This classification was introduced to highlight the unique qualities of wines produced from the region's volcanic soils to set a standard of excellence that reflects the region's distinct terroir. The term "Eruption" was chosen to evoke the explosive flavours and the deep connection to the volcanic origins of the region.

To be able to qualify as an "Eruption wine," certain criteria must be met. First and foremost, the grapes must come exclusively from vineyards situated on volcanic soils. The winemaking process undergoes strict quality controls, including lower yields, mandatory hand-harvesting, and extended aging periods. This results in wines that are not only expressive of their terroir but also capable of aging gracefully over many years.

The Role of Organic and Biodynamic Farming

The winemakers of Vulkanland Steiermark are deeply committed to sustainable viticulture. Many vineyards are farmed organically or biodynamically, practices that are believed to enhance the expression of the terroir in the wines. These methods involve avoiding synthetic chemicals and instead relying on natural processes to maintain vine health and soil fertility. This not only produces healthier grapes but also fosters a deeper connection between the vineyard and its environment.

Winemaking Techniques: Crafting Wines of Exceptional Quality

In the cellar, Vulkanland’s winemakers combine traditional techniques with modern innovations to craft wines of unparalleled quality. For white wines, gentle pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks are common, preserving the fresh, fruity character of the grapes. Some producers also use large, neutral oak barrels for aging, which adds complexity without overpowering the delicate flavours of the wine.

Vulkanlands red wines often undergo longer maceration periods, allowing for greater extraction of colour and tannins. Aging in small oak barrels is common, which imparts subtle oak flavours and further enhances the wine’s complexity. However, the use of oak is always carefully balanced to ensure that the unique terroir-driven flavours of the wine are not overshadowed by the oak in any way.

Characteristics of Eruption Wines

Eruption wines are renowned for their explosive and intense flavours and profound complexity. On the nose, these wines often exhibit a rich bouquet of stone fruits, citrus, and floral notes, underpinned by a distinctive minerality. On the palate, they are full-bodied and incredibly structured, with a balance of ripe fruit, vibrant acidity, and a lingering finish that often reveals subtle notes of smoke, flint, and spice.

What sets Eruption wines apart is their ability to express the unique terroir of Vulkanland. The volcanic soils impart a characteristic minerality and an earthy undertone that is unmistakable for the region. These wines are also known for their aging potential; many Eruption wines can develop in the bottle for a decade or more, gaining additional layers of complexity as they age.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

My Experience with Krispels B1: “The wine out of Stone”

This was a ‘once in a lifetime’ kind of wine, and I felt huge gratitude being able to have a taste of this incredibly crafted wine. A wine that spends it time in stone, and no I don’t mean a cement barrel or other regular forms of vinification, but something quite unique. This wine pends its time in a basalt grafted “sarcophagus”, something you only witness amongst mummies and pyramids when going to Egypt, as so I thought. 

This special wine, the B1, matures in Krispels basalt wine cellar. The B1 stands for perseverance, consistency and prudence. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc Neusetzberg (Erste Lage) and Grauburgunder from Hochstrandl (Grosse Lage). After three weeks of fermentation on the skins, bringing out maximum aroma’s, it is then aged in large oak barrels for 12 months.  It then moves to the basalt wine cellar and is aged for another 12 months in basalt stone barrels. Krispels philosophy? When maturing in the basal rock, the wine absorbs the inexhaustible energy of the volcanic region. 

Can it be tasted though? Well, to me, it was definitely a wine like no other I have tasted before. It had such an incredible power, maybe even call it ‘superpowers’ if you will. That incredible depth, those lingering flavours of ripe stone fruits, and yet crisp acidity. That incredible versatile texture and mouthfeel due to the skin contact of the grapes. Can’t stop thinking about it…

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, B1 sarcophagus displayed

We even saw their special addition of the B1 2015, that is probably released by know, but would be eligible for sale since beginning summer 2024. A single basalt sarcophagus lying in a dark room, with a gentle stoplight on it, chanting music all day to inspire the wine to absorb all its energy. This was a one-of-a-kind experience, surely worth the visit. 

A Region on the Rise: Growing Recognition and Prestige

In recent years, Vulkanland Steiermark has begun to gain the recognition it deserves on the international stage. Eruption wines, in particular, have become sought-after by collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate their unique qualities and aging potential. The region's winemakers are continually experimenting with new techniques and grape varieties, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in this extraordinary terroir.

Like many wine regions, Vulkanland faces challenges related to climate change, market pressures, and the need to balance tradition with innovation. However, the winemakers of Vulkanland are resilient and adaptive, committed to preserving the unique character of their wines while also embracing new opportunities.

Vulkanland Steiermark: A Region Like No Other

Steiermark’s Vulkanland, with its volcanic soils and unique climatic conditions, is a hidden gem in the world of wine. The region’s distinctive terroir, combined with the passion and expertise of the winemakers, results in wines of unparalleled quality and character. 

Vulkanland Steiermark is a region that embodies the essence of terroir-driven winemaking. The Eruption Winzer of this area are a true testament to the power of nature, history, and human ingenuity coming together to create something truly special. With their explosive flavours, profound complexity, and deep connection to the land, Eruption wines are not just a product of their environment, I must add they are a reflection of the very soul of Vulkanland. As the world continues to discover the treasures of this remarkable region, one thing is certain: Vulkanland Steiermark will continue to be a beacon of excellence in the world of wine for years to come.

When you want to visit the region, read my other article on which wineries to visit in Vulkanland Steiermark here.

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Resources: 

• Official website of Eruption Winzer
• Official website of Austrian Wine