Image Source: Wine with Margaret
This article was written after the judging competition in April 2024, organised by the Sauvignon Collection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, while attending as a wine judge during this time.
Nestled in the rolling hills of southern Austria, the winegrowing region of Südsteiermark a destination that will take your breath away. Known for its incredible landscape, unique terroir, and the distinctive characteristics of its Sauvignon Blanc. Südsteiermark stands as a testament to Austria’s burgeoning reputation in the global wine industry. I couldn’t stop looking outside, when on the bus driving towards our destination, views as far as the eyes could see. Everything green, bright blue sky, everything looking so peaceful. We were on the bus with about 50 judges on our way for a meet-up with several winemakers from the region at Weingut Gross. For us to discover the versatility of the region and its diversity in winemakers all showcasing their wines to us. First let me share some more information on this incredible region.
Image Source: OeWM_WSNA_stmk Sudsteirmark Heimschuh Kittenberg
Südsteiermark’ Enchanting Terroir and Climate
Südsteiermark, also known as South Styria, is in the southernmost part of Austria, bordering Slovenia. Südsteiermark is the smallest of the three growing regions in total area in Steiermark, nonetheless this region has the highest amount of vineyard plantings a total of 2,798ha area under vine.
- Hilly Region: This hilly region is known for its steep slopes, some of which can have an incline of up to 90%! With elevations ranging from 300-600 meters above sea level. This challenging requires hand-harvesting and gives the wines distinct characteristics due to the varied sun exposure and microclimates within the vineyards.
- Cool Climate: Südsteiermark has a cooler climate compared to other wine regions in Austria, with significant diurnal temperature variation. The region experiences warm days and cool nights, which are ideal for grape growing, allowing for a prolonged ripening period that results in wines with intense aromatic complexity and vibrant acidity. The region enjoys a unique microclimate that is both Alpine and Mediterranean.
- Diversity of Microclimates: Due to its hilly terrain and varying altitudes, boasts a wide range of microclimates within a relatively small area. This diversity allows for the cultivation of different grape varieties, each expressing the unique terroir of its specific location.
- Focus on Organic & Biodynamic Farming: Many wineries in Südsteiermark are pioneers in organic and biodynamic viticulture. The region’s focus on sustainable farming practices ensures that the wines are not only high-quality but also environmentally friendly.
- Tradition of Mixed Plantings: Many older vineyards in Südsteiermark are still planted with a mix of grape varieties in a single vineyard, a traditional practice known as "Gemischter Satz." This results in complex, multi-layered wines that reflect the diversity of the vineyard.
Image Source: Wein Steiermark
Südsteiermark DAC has five viticultural districts
Kitzeck-Sausal – 419ha: Sauvignon Blanc & Riesling are their flagships varietals. Its soils here are predominantly slate (red, blue-black, green & grey), formed from crystalline schist. Occasionally limestone soils. Regional characteristics is that the area is open to the nearby Alps, it is made of much older sorts of rock than those of the surrounding hilly landscape of the basin. Most of the vineyards are planted at altitudes of between 380-650 metres, the steepest vineyards have an inclination of more than 70% and can almost exclusively be cultivated only by hand.
Gamlitz – 693ha: Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller are Gamlitz flagships varietals. Its soils here are predominantly sandy & gravel soils, limestone/marl soils. Most vineyards are situated between 320-550 metres above sea level. Some steep hills are exposed, rising above other parts of the landscape. There are two streams in rift valleys (Steinbachgraben & Kranachgraben).
Eichberg – 355ha: Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller are Eichberg’ flagships varietals. Its soils here are mainly light gravel & sandy soils from alluvial deposits, or sandstone. The Eichberg chain of hills lie between Gamlitz & Leutschach at 450-600 metres above sea level. These hills are characterised by steep slopes. The region is close by the Koralpe Range, contributing to a cooling influence on the region.
Ehrenhausen – 426ha: Sauvignon Blanc & Morillon are their flagships varietals. Its soils here are predominantly medium-heavy to heavy limestone soils (Leithakalk, also known as coral limestone); source material Leitha-limestone. Some Opok as well.
Leutschach – 631ha: Sauvignon Blanc & Muskateller are their flagships varietals. Its soils here are predominantly heavy beds of calcareous marl (Opok), partly traversed by gravel banks. The Leutschach vineyards are among the most southerly vineyards in the Steiermark and are seated between 380-570 metres above sea level. Slopes can be as steep with a 75% incline.
Source Image: Wine with Margaret, different soil types from left to right: Opok, Slate, Fossil, Leithakalk.
A Mosaic of Geological History
The soils of Südsteiermark are a mosaic of geological history, primarily consisting of marl, sand, and limestone. This diversity in soil composition plays a significant role in the region’s ability to produce wines with a distinct minerality and structure. The rich marl soils, known locally as "Opok," a type of marl-rich clay that is highly calcareous. Opok is particularly favourable for cultivating Sauvignon Blanc, imparting a stony, flinty character that is unmistakably recognisable in the wines it creates. This terroir-driven approach is what sets Südsteiermark apart, making it a region where the soil speaks through the wine.
Grape varieties
The region is predominantly planted with white grape varietals with a total of 2,251ha. Red varietals are the least represented with only 247ha, just about 9% of the total plantings. There is even some Sovenian influence in this part of the Steiermark. Südsteiermark shares a border with Slovenia, and there is a strong cultural and historical exchange between the two regions. This influence is seen in the winemaking practices and the shared grape varieties, particularly Sauvignon Blanc, which thrives on both sides of the border.
1. Sauvignon Blanc – 721ha
2. Welschriesling – 412ha
3. Muskateller – 404ha
4. Weissburgunder – 345ha
5. Chardonnay – 256ha
6. Zweigelt – 108ha
7. Pinot Gris – 91ha
8. Müller-Thurgau – 90ha
9. Blauer Wildbacher – 88ha
11. Riesling – 47ha
Source Image: Wine with Margaret
Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark’ Crown Jewel
Sauvignon Blanc has become synonymous with Südsteiermark, but its dominance in the region is relatively recent. While we probably all know that this variety originated in France’ Loire Valley, it found an exceptional home in Südsteiermark during the 20th century. Pioneering winemakers recognised the potential of the region’s cool climate and its unique soils, gradually focusing their efforts on perfecting this varietal. Today, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for a significant portion of Südsteiermark's wine production, and its international acclaim continues to grow. And with good reason.
Tasting Profile and Characteristics: Sauvignon Blanc from Südsteiermark is distinctively aromatic, often described as an explosion of scents and flavours that capture the essence of the region. But differently expressive than a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand for instance. On the nose, one can expect an array of aromas, ranging from ripe tropical fruits like passion fruit and guava to green elements such as gooseberry, green pepper, and freshly cut grass. The palate is marked by crisp acidity, a hallmark of the region’s cool climate, balanced by a creamy texture and mineral undertones. The finish is often long and refreshing, leaving a lingering impression of citrus and flint.
Pairing Sauvignon Blanc with Local Cuisine: The versatility of Südsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc makes it an ideal pairing for a variety of dishes, particularly those that reflect the local cuisine. The wine’s high acidity and vibrant fruit profile complement the region’s traditional dishes, such as "Backhendl" (fried chicken), "Steirischer Wurzelfleisch" (pork with root vegetables), and the famous pumpkin seed oil, which is a staple in Styrian salads. The wine’s minerality also pairs beautifully with seafood, making it a perfect match for dishes like smoked trout or grilled pikeperch.
Image Source: Austrian Wine, Welschriesling
Other Noteworthy Varietals from Südsteiermark
Muskateller: A Fragrant Delight
While Sauvignon Blanc might be the star of Südsteiermark, the region is also home to other varietals that deserve attention. Gelber Muskateller, or Yellow Muscat, is one such grape that thrives in the region’s unique terroir. Known for its highly aromatic profile, Muskateller offers a bouquet of floral and citrus notes, with a hint of spice that adds complexity. It’s a wine that is often enjoyed as an aperitif or paired with light, aromatic dishes.
Underdog with Potential the Welschriesling
Welschriesling, despite its name, is unrelated to the noble Riesling grape. In Südsteiermark,
this varietal is often used to produce crisp, refreshing wines that are perfect for warm summer days. Welschriesling here is typically dry, with zesty acidity and flavouurs of green apple, lemon, and a touch of white flowers. It is a wine that reflects the region’s cool climate and is gaining recognition for its potential to produce high-quality, age-worthy wines.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret
Scenic Routes and Wine Tourism
One of the most compelling aspects of Südsteiermark is its wine route, a journey that winds through some of the most picturesque landscapes in Austria. The “Südsteirische Weinstrasse”, stretches over 40 kilometres, taking you through terraced vineyards, charming villages, and family-run wineries. This route offers not only a visual feast but also an opportunity to experience the warm hospitality of the region’s winemakers, who are eager to share their passion and knowledge. I have written a blog about the Sudsteirische Weinstrasse, and its charming wineries that you can visit along the way, you can read it here. [ADD LINK]
Source Image: Wine with Margaret
Recent Developments and Future Outlook
In recent years, Südsteiermark has seen a growing trend toward organic and sustainable winemaking practices. With increasing awareness of environmental issues, many winemakers are adopting biodynamic methods, focusing on enhancing the health of the soil and reducing the use of chemical inputs. This shift is not only beneficial for the environment but also leads to wines that are more expressive of their terroir, offering a purer reflection of the region’s unique characteristics.
Recognition on the International Stage
Südsteiermark’s wines are gaining international recognition, with several winemakers receiving accolades at prestigious wine competitions like those from Concours du Sauvignon by Concours Mondial. The region’s Sauvignon Blanc in particular, has been praised for its quality and distinctiveness, earning a place among the world’s top expressions of this varietal. As a result, Südsteiermark is increasingly seen as a serious contender in the global wine market, attracting the attention of wine critics, importers, and enthusiasts around the world.
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