Image Source: Wine with Margaret

This article was written after a press trip, organised by the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, while attending the ÖTW Single Vineyard Summit 2024 to which I was delighted to attend.

Ever heard of the region of Carnuntum in Austria? Well, I have heard of the region once or twice before and knew that the region mainly is all about red wines, and that it borders Slovenia, but that was about it really. I am not ashamed to admit it! I searched my WSET Diploma books and scrolled through the chapter of Austria in the good hope of finding some information... Shockingly I didn’t find any piece of existence about Carnuntum in my books, nothing at all, well the region was drawn on the Austrian regional wine map but with no mention of the name.

So, the moment that I was invited by the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, or the ÖTW for short, reading that there would be an excursion organised to Carnuntum I was genuinely excited to dive into the region and figuring out what it is all about. I was ready to get my hands dirty to discover more about this “relatively new” wine region. I mention a “relatively new region”, but it isn’t really. While regions like Wachau or Burgenland often take the spotlight, Carnuntum nowadays quietly crafts wines of exceptional quality, offering both historical intrigue and modern innovation. Why this region stayed under-the-radar for so long is a mystery to me though. 

The region of Carnuntum exists for quite a while, only it wasn’t recognised as a DAC region of its own for a long time. Sometimes it was seen as the southern extension of the Weinviertel, making only easily accessible wines that were mainly for local consumption, rather than creating wines that were paying attention to local differences in varieties and soils. 

Up until the beginning of the 90s (1992), a winemaker named Pitnauer realised that he had to put a halt to being seen as unrecognised and wanted to change the scene for the future of Carnuntum. He was the advocate for creating the Carnuntum DAC, since the region has the potential to offer a lot of incredible versatile and age worthy wines. Let me take you with me on my adventure to Carnuntum, which is part of Niederösterreich.

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, with the still to be harvested Zweigelt

En route to Carnuntum… 

…It was rooting hot (32°C) outside while we drove from Vienna airport towards the Carnuntum wine region with a group of international wine journalists, from Norway to China and in between, on Sunday the 8th of September (2024). When we left the city of Vienna behind us and drove into the countryside en route to Carnuntum, it amazed me to realise how warm and quite windy it was, not something that comes first to my mind when I think about Austria.

We arrived at Weingut Netzl, where several fabulous producers from the region all came together to showcase their wines in a regional overview tasting. We’ve tasted some mind blown reds made from either Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch their main red varieties. Or a blend with added Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon as well. Supposing there is some planted Syrah in the area from when it was quite popular in the early 90s, did you know? Not in my wildest dreams I would have guessed. 

Districtus Austriae Controllatus or DAC

Let’s me explain the Austrian DAC quality system briefly. The DAC system is based on defined terroirs in Austria. There is the Gebietswein (regional wines), the Ortswein (“Village wines”) and the Riedenwein (single vineyard wines). This pyramid ensures a certain quality standard on the wines of Austria. I will be talking a little more about the “Riedenwein” and especially the “Erste Lagen” wines from Carnuntum.

First there are 6 defined Ortswein regions in Carnuntum: Stixneusiedl, Göttlesbrunn, Höfflein,
Petronell-Carnuntum, Hainburg and Prellenkirchen. Every defined region for Ortswein has their own named single vineyards (riedenwein). In total there are about 39 single vineyards. And with those single vineyards there are some special sites called the Erste Lagen, and there is a total of 9 Erste Lagen in Carnuntum. Each of these Erste Lagen have their own soil profile and terroir specificities as well, that makes the wines so distinctive from one another. I had the pleasure to get myself acquainted with the wines from these Erste Lagen, and wow the region deserves a podium, honestly! 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, tractors waiting

A Tractor Ride Through Carnuntum’ Vineyards

In the meantime, while I was discussing the Carnuntum wines with my Norwegian colleague Mona Haugen-Kind from the VinArena wine & spirits magazine, I rescued a dragonfly from the tasting room, to roam free outside in the vineyard again. We were called out together to finish our tasting and come outside, where there was a surprise waiting for us. After a brief thank you from all the attending wineries, we were told to climb onto a tractor, that were waiting for us in the vineyard, for us to be driven around and see the vineyards of Carnuntum. 

A childhood dream coming through, well maybe not really, but secretly enjoyed every minute of the ride. I think my son would have been jealous with me at this point. The wind was blowing through my hair, the sun was out, the company was incredible and the entertainment for sure. But what about that wind though?! Some of us were curious so we asked if this wind was normal for the region and the answer was quite interesting. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret. A tractor ride through Carnuntum, a windmill park catching the everlasting windy conditions of the region. 

Seen the Danube river lies behind the hills of Carnuntum, the region acts as a funnel for the wind that blows over the river. Giving the region the much-needed cooling influence it needs during the hot summer temperatures, to cool down the grapes to ensure enough acidity. As on rainy days, the grapes will be dried quickly because of the wind, this way disease pressure is relatively low. So, the Danube is the reason why it’s so windy and that is the main reason that there are a lot of windmills in the region of Carnuntum. Like you can see behind me on the picture (below), where we drove alongside a grainfield opposite of the vineyards. 

The hills of Carnuntum are mainly gravel deposits from the Danube river, and the vineyard elevations lie between 180m up to the Schüttersberg being the highest point at 284m above sea level. Most of the hilltops are covered with trees from the Maria Ellender forest, which is about 2000ha wide. The forest protects the south facing vineyards from the harsh winds from the Danube river, and make sure that the temperatures in the vineyards are moderated, since the temperatures in the forest stay cool throughout the day. Carnuntum is one of the warmest regions in Austria and the summers can get to temperatures of 34°C easily. 

There also falls enough rain. The rain that falls in Carnuntum comes from Hungary. Other regions in Austria get rain that comes from the west, only all the rain falls anywhere else before it reaches Carnuntum, because the rain is held back by several mountain ranges from the Alps before being able to reach the region. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, me with Martin Netzl on the back of the tractor. Martin pointing out, where we were driving and that large “green spot” on the map is the Maria Ellender Forest.

In the meantime, I’m trying to keep my hands still enough to keep writing in my notebook, trying to stay seated, while the tractor is bumbling over the road through the vineyards. Quite challenging I might add, still hoping I can read what I wrote afterwards. Nevertheless, I keep on jotting down everything to what Martin Netzl tells us about the region, its/his vineyards, climate and the diversity in the region’s soil composition. Don’t you agree that there is something about the point of view from a winemaker, vineyard owner’s perspective when they are talking about their own region, that you can never seem to really grasp in any theoretical knowledge from books though. Right?

For those who are as geeky as me when it comes to dirt… The soils are derived from the sediments of the Pannonian Sea, and about every 50 meters or so you’ll find a different type of soil. The soil types that can be found in the region are river deposits, deep layers of loess, clay, there are quartz-rich terrasses, as well as granite and gneiss, even some pockets of poor limestone soils. On the valley floor you’ll find more loam. Knowing the significance of difference in soil types and the regions other unique terroir aspects it is more than just, that Carnuntum became an acknowledged region to stand on its own, creating high-quality wine. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret, on the left: Windy me at the back of the tractor & Carnuntum’s windmills on the back. On the right: Mona Haugen-Kind looking towards, where Martin Netzl is pointing to the origins of Carnuntum’s history, behind the hills lies the Danube river. 

Carnuntum’ Ancient Roots

While honestly enjoying a hobblely tractor ride, where in the meantime I’m wondering if “hobblely” is even a word while I’m looking at the vineyards that pass us by... Martin Netzl told us a little bit about Carnuntum’s history, and pointing out (actually, pointing towards a location behind the hills), where the history of the region began. That the name derived from the ancient Roman city of *Carnuntum*, a thriving military outpost and trade hub along the Danube River and for wine as well. Vines have been cultivated in this area for over two millennia. The remnants of this Roman heritage are still visible today in the region’s archaeological sites and ancient terraces, hinting at the deep connection between this land and its winemaking history.

Image Source: Austrian Wine, regional map of Carnuntum

From West to East

First let me share that Carnuntum has three distinct areas that can be seen from South-West to East. It is divided into three key vineyard areas, each with its own unique characteristics. These vineyards span the Leitha Range, the Arbesthaler Hills, and the Hundsheimer Mountains. 

• In the southwest, the slopes of the Leitha Range feature west-facing vineyards, shielded from the climatic effects of the Neusiedlersee. 
• At the heart of Carnuntum lie the Arbesthaler Hills, home to the famous wine villages of Stixneusiedl, Göttlesbrunn, Höflein, and Arbesthal. The villages are protected by the Maria Ellender forest. The south-facing vineyards here benefit from over 2,000 hours of sunshine annually.
• Vineyards located at the foothills of the Hundsheimer Mountains, the highest point in this region (480m), is also surrounded by cooling forest edges. 

Image Source: Wine with Margaret. On the left: Johannes Pitnauer holding his recently bottled red and a bottle filled with a tank sample of his white wine. On the right: An overview of Carnuntum’s white wines. 

The Wines of Carnuntum

While Austria is known for its world-class Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, Carnuntum sets itself apart as a red wine powerhouse. The region is particularly famed for its signature red, juicy, red fruit-driven Zweigelt and its dark horse, tannic, structured and age-worthy Blaufränkisch - two quintessential Austrian varieties that thrive in the Carnuntum climate. The white wines of Carnuntum are definitely a hidden strength in the region. I’ve asked Johannes Pitnauer if white wines are more upcoming in this region as well, since the trend is leaning more to lighter styled white wines. He told us, that the region is still famous for its reds, but the demand in whites from Carnuntum is also growing steadily. The region produces exceptional whites from Gruner Veltliner and Chardonnay particularly.

I want to talk about the tasted wines and what my general impression of the wines were from
Carnuntum during the tasting in a dedicated article, that will be published shortly. You’ll also find mine and Johannes Fiala’s top 10 wines from the region. Johannes Fiala is the creator of Austrias “Weisswein and Rotwein Guides”, which comes out every year, with all the new released wines and scored. Click here to find out more on Johannes’s guide, you can also buy it on Amazon. 

Why Carnuntum Deserves a Place on Your Wine Radar?

Carnuntum may not be Austria's most famous wine region, but it is undoubtedly exciting, especially on the back of a tractor. I think I can fairly say now that Carnuntum is one of Austria’s underrated treasures for sure. The region is more than just a wine region, it’s a place steeped in history dating back to Roman times. 

It’s diverse terroir, and a new wave of innovative winemakers, the region is primed for discovery. Whether it’s the robust, fruit-driven Zweigelt, or the structured, age-worthy Blaufränkisch, or its elegant whites, Carnuntum offers a little something for everyone.

For those who seek out hidden gems in the world of wine, Carnuntum is a region worth exploring. I was witness of this unique experience hobbling around the vineyards in this up- and-coming region firsthand, with its increasing international recognition, it is now the time to put Carnuntum on your wine radar.