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Fetească the Vinebound Sisters

The Enchanted Romanian Legacy of Fetească Albă, Regală & Neagră

Margot van Lieshout
Feteasca Trilogy

Image Source: Wine with Margaret

Magic and Foklore

They say the Carpathians whisper to those who listen closely. And if you follow those whispers through the folds of mist and vineyard-laced hills, you may just stumble upon three sisters—ancient, elusive, and eternally entwined. Not women, exactly, but vines. Known in hushed tones as the Fetească Trilogy, these grapes— Regală, Albă, and Neagră—carry more than just flavour. They carry memory, myth, and magic.

Fetească Albă, the eldest, is the soft-spoken enchantress. Pale as morning mist, she’s all white blossoms and quiet strength. Her wines are elegant and floral, but behind the gentleness lies a sharp intuition, forged over centuries in monastery cellars and whispered spells of the land.

Then there’s Fetească Regală, the middle sister—crowned, commanding, yet restless. Born of a natural union, she walks between worlds: wildflower delicacy wrapped in sovereign confidence. She dances with the modern and the ancient, often the first to reveal herself, but the last to be truly known.

And last comes Fetească Neagră — the dark one. Smoky, brooding, filled with the heat of summer and the secrets of fire. Her wines bleed with black fruit and ancient incense, a velvet warning from the edge of the forest. Legends say she was born under a blood moon, a daughter of dusk who ripens only when the autumn chill arrives and the veils between worlds grow thin.

Together, the Fetească sisters cast a spell across Romanian terroir—each bottle a potion, each sip a prophecy. And though you may not see them, when the mist rolls over the vines and the owls stir, you might just feel their presence.

As mystique and Roma’s and their believes are bringing to Romania, I am a sucker for good legends, spooky stories with a hint of mysticisms. Especially when being driven through the countryside cloaked in a foggy mist when we were there, reminds me of a holiday I had with my parents when I was younger. Telling Dutch folklore stories to me and my sister when the fields were covered in foggy mists early in the morning, while the sun was piercing through. I loved it then and still love it now.

Let me talk in more detail about the varieties itself, just to give you some more theoretical information rather then being swept away by mysticism.

Image: Wines of Romania & bottle shots Wine with Margaret

Fetească Albă – The White Fetească

It is widely used in parts of Eastern Europe, most notably Romania, where its origins lie. Romania has the largest area planted of Fetească Albă in the world with 11,982 hectares. It is the primordial form of Fetească (the parent), from which Fetească Regală evolved. Region of origin: Uricani, Moldova region, north-east Romania. First mentioned in texts of the 1790s.

The yield is lower than that of Feteasca Regală (which ranks first), but the wine has a moderate alcohol content, a lot of body, and greater persistence. Feteasca Albă is a fairly easy variety and resistant to low temperatures (-20 to -22 degrees Celsius), making the wine popular in many vineyards in the northern part of the country, where it develops a zesty acidity.

Naturally gains high sugar levels / often struggle to retain desirable acidity levels. Feteasca Albă makes dry, aromatic wines with stonefruit and tropical flavours, as well sweet and sparkling wines

Tasting Profile

It has elegant aromas of white flowers and citrus fruits. When the grapes are fully ripe, aromas of white peach, flowers, and honey emerge. Through careful fermentation at low temperatures, Fetească Albă can develop a secondary fermentation aroma that gives the wine remarkable finesse and flavor harmony. In terms of aging potential, this wine can successfully compete with Chardonnay.

Aromatics: White flowers, Green apples, Pears, Citrus fruits, Linden flower, Wildflowers, Hay, Ripe apricots, Aromatic herbs.

Image: Wines of Romania & bottle shots Wine with Margaret

Fetească Regală “The Royal Girl”

Romania’s most widely cultivated variety, with an area of 12,077 hectares. It is a light-skinned grape variety found throughout Eastern Europe, and particularly in Romania. Region of origin: Daneș, Transylvania Plateau, in the center of Romania. This variety was first mentioned in texts found of 1903. The grape was first identified in the town of Daneș, Sibiu County, about 45 km from Jidvei.

According to vivc.de, the Fetească Regală is a natural cross between the Fetească Albă and the Frâncuşă (French Fetească). A variety that is well suited to a continental climate. Semi-aromatic varietal richer in flavour / the tannins in the grapes' skins provide some complexity.

It appears that the name "Royal Girl" was given by the legendary producer Michael Ambrosi Jr. after a visit from King Ferdinand, during its visit the king was impressed by the wine, hence the name.

Tasting Profile

Fetească Regală is a very versatile grape that, depending on the winemaking techniques used, can produce wines that are fresh and crisp, with delicate aromas of wildflowers, or well-structured wines with aging potential, featuring a complex bouquet of ripe fruit, honey, and some oxidative nuances. The largest producer of Fetească Regală in Romania is JIDVEI, from the region of Transylvania.

Aromatics: Lime, Green bell pepper, White flowers, Green apricots, Green apples, Dried herbs, Celery leaves, Thyme.

Image: Wines of Romania & bottle shots Wine with Margaret

Fetească Neagră – ‘The Black Girl’

Feteasca Neagră is without a doubt one of the best-known grape varieties in Romania. Although it covered only a few hundred hectares in the 1990s, its qualities attracted the attention of producers, and today it is cultivated on 3,312 hectares. The wine comes from the valley of the Prut River, a tributary of the Danube river in the Lași region, where large vineyards have existed since the 12th century.

An indigenous grape variety with dark skin which originated in Romania. To be specific, its region of origin is Uricani, Moldova region, North-east of Romania. Here the Prut river borders Moldova as the country and the region within Romania of the same name. It has been first mentioned in texts of 1790s. It is quite a resistant variety to both cold temperatures and drought conditions. It can accumulate a high sugar content and high acidity & a good concentration of anthocyanins. Oak aging can flatter Fetească Neagră, adding savoury.

Tasting Profile

Fetească Neagră is a versatile variety produced in dry, medium-dry, sweet, and rose wines or sparkling. The variety has aromas of blackberries, black cherries, plums, prunes, and spices. The taste is balanced, with a medium body, complemented by the finesse of the wine. The wines age well. When matured in oak barrels, the flavours become more complex, with notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, and cloves. Without contact with wood, if harvested late, the wine acquires a light aroma of smoked prunes.

Aromatics: Prunes, Dark cherry, Damson, Chocolate, Black pepper, Blackberries, Cinnamon, Toast, Vanilla, Dried herbs