Image Source: Concours Mondial & Wine with Margaret – A Chandon Winery (left) and the Xixia Tombs in the Gobi Desert (right)
Where vines are buried to survive winter, wine now thrives at the edge of the Gobi Desert. China’s Ningxia region might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of fine wine, but it absolutely should be. Nestled between the eastern foothills of the Helan Mountains and the vast sprawl of the Gobi Desert, Ningxia has quietly become one of the world’s most surprising and determined wine frontiers.
Before traveling there myself, my knowledge of Chinese wine was mostly academic — tucked away from my Diploma studies, and only theoretical. But walking the vineyards, tasting the wines, and meeting producers like Lin Lin, assistant winemaker at Domaine Chandon Ningxia (whom I had the pleasure of sitting with during this year’s CMB wine judging sessions), changed everything.
What follows is a blend of on-the-ground impressions, technical insight, and historical context on this remarkable region. Whether you’re a wine student, a curious traveller, or someone chasing new terroir stories, I hope this gives you a fresh look at the powerful rise of Ningxia.
Turning Desert into Vineyard: The Origins of a Wine Frontier
To understand Ningxia’s modern winemaking success, we first need to grasp the scale and nature of the landscape that defines it. The title to this article seems only fitting to the context what I am about to write. Since the Gobi Desert is a huge part of the history and the present of Ningxia’s wine growing region. The largest desert in the world that partially has been turned into fruitful vineyards and is currently holding about 33,000 hectares of China’s finest vineyards, about 1/3 of the total amount. The desert is so large, that it covers the southern part of Mongolia and the northern part of the People’s Republic of China. And did you know that a large part of the desert doesn’t exist of ‘just’ sand (or vineyards) but from pure rock formations?
How did all this happen? A governmental decision to make parts of the Gobi Desert into a place where an economy can thrive, from a wonderous tourist attraction, with a lot of job offerings, winemaking, ancient history to be discovered, and so, so much more.
A desert isn’t exactly ideal for growing greens, right? But when the Chinese set their minds to something, they make it happen — and they did. Mountain runoff water, or water drawn from and/or comes from the dug canals from the Yellow River to start supplying the Desert with a sufficient water supply so they could start creating what once seemed impossible.
So, let us take a deeper dive into this unmistakable, incredible region that created wine from the largest desert in the world.
Image source: Wine with Margaret – vineyard view from deck terrace at Domaine Chandon Ningxia with the Helan Mountains at the background.
Helan’s Eastern Foothills: Where Altitude Meets Advantage
At the heart of Ningxia’s transformation is one remarkable location: the east foothills of the Helan Mountains. A growing region tucked between timeworn mountain ridges and the slow, steady breath of the Yellow River. This place has quietly become one of the most promising wine regions on earth. The vineyards of the Helan Mountain East Foothills can be found at an altitude of around 1,294m above sea level. Ningxia growing region is located between 37°-39° northern latitude like Napa, California, making it an ideal wine-growing region. But doesn’t it hardly rain in a desert? Yes, you’re so right, this region isn’t known for it gets far less rain than the monsoon-soaked regions in southern China and elsewhere in Asia, in fact the precipitation that falls is even lesser than 300mm a year.
Helan’s eastern foothills lie at a rare intersection of the Yellow River’s alluvial plain and the mountain’s ancient fan-shaped deposits. Over 200,000 hectares of desert land shimmer under the sun. Helan Mountain Range stretches over 200km long from the north to the midway south covering the region of Ningxia. Where Ningxia is part of the Yellow River basin. Ningxia’s vineyards might start at a growing point at about 1,294m above sea level, but the highest mountain peaks of the Helan Mountains are about 3,556 meters above sea level.
These mountains form a natural barrier between the Gobi Desert and the Ningxia vineyards, blocking the movement of wind carried sands from the Desert into the growing area. The vineyards are protected from all weather extremes to be exact from the sometimes-scorching drying heat from the Gobi Desert, and the icy cold weather fronts that come from Siberia. Protecting the vineyards against the extreme frosts that can arrive in winter and preserves the relatively mild temperatures during the growing season.
The Helan Mountains, like many others, are not a solid rock mass — they have valleys running between them, as we clearly saw at the ancient rock paintings site. For instance, these valleys form corridors that let in cooler air, leading to local weather patterns. The role of the Helan Mountains is essential to Ningxia’s growing region, and the Chinese know it. Did you know that the Chinese see the Helan Mountains as their natural Chinese Wall? A part of the actual Chinese Great Wall can also be found in Ningxia, dating back to the Xixia Empire (1038-1227). We didn’t have time to go to see some part of the actual Great Wall, it is also a bit off the beaten track, in the seemingly deserted part of China where Yinchuan lies.
If you want to read more about the Helan Mountain Art rock paintings click here and the Xixia Tombs we’ve visited, just click here to read the article.
Sustainable Practices in the Desert: Organic Innovation in Ningxia
Beyond climate and geography, Ningxia’s approach to farming reflects a deeper ambition—sustainability at scale. Ningxia isn’t only gaining acclaim for its vineyards but also for its commitment to sustainability and organic viticulture. Wineries in this Ningxia offers terroir benefits that minimize disease pressure and reduce pesticide dependence.
Local government policies enforce strict annual irrigation quotas, driving widespread adoption of drip irrigation systems that conserve water and promote efficient resource use. Several estates are experimenting with organic and biodynamic techniques: for example, Chateau Huida produces on-site organic fertilizers and has implemented self-sustaining, holistic vineyard management, while Xige Estate develops packaging products from grape skins and vine waste to reduce environmental impact.
Frost management—burying vines each winter—is labour-intensive and adds nearly 30% to production costs, but it underscores the region’s dedication to ecological stewardship.
Overall, Ningxia’s blend of cutting-edge vineyard technology, state-led conservation, and growing organic practices positions it as a model of sustainable winemaking—where environmental consciousness and quality coexist in the vineyards of the Gobi frontier.
A Dream Backed by Belief, China’s Golden Zone
They call Ningxia China’s “golden zone” for a reason. With vineyards nestled at the foot of the Helan Mountains, the region holds all the natural ingredients for successful viticulture. Here, sunlight bathes the vines with purpose, the air is crisp and cooling, and every drop of rainfall seems perfectly timed—almost like nature’s own calibration.
Back in the late 1990s, this landscape still looked like a forgotten place—too dry, too rocky, too stubborn for crops. But local visionaries, supported by government initiatives, saw something different. Through strategic investment and sheer determination, they turned a barren expanse into what now home to a vast and growing area of vineyards.
By 2020, just over a hundred wineries had taken root in this once-unlikely location—each one a testament to what belief and perseverance can achieve in the face of elemental extremes.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret
I’ve felt that extremity myself—walking through the Xixia Tombs under a scorching desert sun, even though it was “just” 28°C that day. Camel tours passed by as if reminding visitors: yes, this is still the Gobi, but it’s also something more now.
At over 1,200 meters above sea level, vines receive long daylight hours, with cooling nights, to balance their ripening. Summer days are hot, yet moderated by the presence of the Helan Mountains, temperatures rise to 35°C, and the temperature swings of 12 to 15°C during the nights, give grapes the complexity they need to thrive. The region averages 3,000 hours of sun annually.
Yet it’s not without challenges. The so-called “dry monsoon” of the desert brings intense evaporation, which can weaken vines during the growing season. Annual precipitation ranges between 145 and 320mm, with most rainfall concentrated in July and August. As a result, irrigation is essential to support vine health.
The timing of this rainfall is key. With lower precipitation during the critical ripening window from September to October, the fruit tends to stay clean and concentrated—giving winemakers the freedom to operate organically or biodynamically. Many already do.
Winter brings a new set of trials. Temperatures can plunge to –20°C, making vine burial not just a tradition but a necessity. Each November, vineyard crews bend the vines down, cover them with soil or sand, and then carefully unearth them again in April—an arduous cycle of protection and rebirth.
Image Source: Decanter – Vine burying in Ningxia wine region. Workers are protecting themselves from the sun by covering up most parts of their bodies.
In Ningxia they even talk about how many frost-free days the vineyards have during the year. For instance, Yinchuan region within Ningxia counts 185 frost-free days, whereas the more northerly region of Shizuishan counts between 125-165 frost-free days. This gives you an idea of how long their growing season has from start to finish, and the other part of the year, they need to protect their vines at all costs.
Some wineries like Domaine Chandon Ningxia, has grown their vines high from the ground (1.2m or so), so they can burry the complete vine, by taking them off the trellising system and bending them over to the ground, and covering them up completely with sand during the winter period. And digging them out in the beginning of each year. A very time-consuming job, that demands great care for their vines to make sure they stay healthy and protected. But to say the least, these vines know a true dormant period for sure.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret - Uprooted vine on display at Yuanshi Vineyard.
Working the Soil: How Winemakers Shaped the Land
Before vines could thrive, the land itself had to be worked—by hand, and with grit. That is what a lot of winemakers and vine growers did in the early days before the land was able to grow vines. The land had to be worked before it could grow anything. Although the Chinese said that having sandy soils is good for the water permeability and the roots going deeper and therefor creating very healthy and sturdy vines that could battle the odds of the extremes of the Gobi Desert they were presented with. And they were not wrong.
The vineyards at the foothills of the Helan Mountains are located between the Yellow River’ alluvial plain and the Helan Mountains alluvial fan. As I explained earlier the mountains block a lot, like winds blown with sand, but still some sand will blow over the mountains to settle down on top of the soils in the vineyards.
The soil combination found at the Helan Foothills is Sierozem, “peppered with sand and gravel”. The word Sierozem comes from Russian and translates to “gray soil” also known as gray-earth, a type of soil found in arid and semi-arid regions, with low rainfall, high evaporation and sparse vegetation. Characterized by brownish-gray surface layer over a lighter-coloured layer. Light grey limestone soils, aeolian sand and silt, poor in organic matter and have a weak structure, with poor water-holding capacity. Creating wines with a high minerality.
The Grapes That Thrive in Ningxia
The main varieties in Ningxia are all Eurasian ones. Where the first vines were brought from France. Nowadays more than 30 years later, there are a total of some 20 varieties that have seen fit to suit the Ningxia climate and its extremities. The main red varieties are, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Marselan, Sangiovese, Beimei and Petit Verdot. Red varieties count to 90% of the total area under vine. The main white varieties as little as they come are Chardonnay, Italian Riesling (Riesling Italico), Riesling, Vidal (Canadian hybrid), and Petit Manseng. Marselan is increasingly seen as China’s flagship variety.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret (picture of a picture taken at Yuanshi Vineyard in the Yinchuan Region and the Xixia District)
The Six Subregions of Ningxia
Zooming in further, Ningxia’s wine map reveals six distinct zones, each with its own soil character and growing conditions. Trace your finger south along the map and you’ll find six regions of which 4 of them are significant, and Yinchuan even has some sub-regions as well, each with its own terroir. It is the only wine-producing region in China that uses the chateau classification system from France to manage local wineries. The support from the government is also the strength to enhance the wine industry. In the late 1990s, the Ningxia agricultural authority began investing time, effort and capital in thousands of hectares.
- Shizuishan Region: is in the northernmost part of the protected area of the Ningxia Helan Mountain Eastern Foot Wine Region, which is not yet fully developed, it is just in a starting position. The vineyards are located close to the foot of the Helan Mountains, and the soil type is medium gravel and sandstone.
- Helan Region: like a diluvial fan is located at the north side of Suyukou, Helan Mountain. Its soil consists of heavy gravels and sand gravels. The nearer it is to foot of the mountain, the bigger the gravels are.
- Yinchuan Region – that embeds the Jingfeng District, Xixia District, Helan District and the Yongning County. A region in Ningxia which developed boutique wineries earliest. The soil near the foot of mountain is sand gravels. Owing to a high content of gravels, its development requires soil improvement.
- Yongning Region: Yuquanying is the origin of Ningxia’s wine industry. Its production areas are located at the east and west of Yuquanying. Its wester soil near the foot of Helan Mountain consists of gravels. Its eastern soil consists of sands. Its production areas accommodate many large wineries.
- Qingtongxia Region: is at the tail end of Helan Mountain Range. Its soil mainly consists of sierozem and contains rich mineral substances and microelements. Its soil contains a lot of sands and has good water permeability.
- Hongsipu Region: is at the southmost end of Dongpu Wine Production area. Its soil mainly consists of sierozem and has a high proportion of particles and much less sands and cosmids. Its soil has many capillary pores and can store water and fertilizers well.
*The input for these regions is taken from the book “A Journey to Ningxia and its wines. *The map here shows the wineregions within the growing region of Ningxia.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret – some of the wines I’ve tasted at the open tasting that was held at the Wanda Realm Hotel, while we were staying there.
Tasting Ningxia: Promise, Progress, and Personality
My Take? There is structure, potential, and a story still unfolding. After tasting a selection of wines across the Ningxia region—from boutique producers to more established names—I can confidently say that Ningxia is not just a novelty in the wine world. It’s a region with structure, identity, and serious potential, even if it's still carving out a consistent signature across its wide-ranging producers.
Let’s start with the reds, which dominate the region (around 90% of total plantings). Cabernet Sauvignon and Marselan are clearly the two most present varieties, with Marselan gaining more ground as the standout. Cabernet-based wines here show deep colour, high tannin structure, and a certain density—sometimes bordering on heavy—yet often balanced by ripe black fruit, cassis, and subtle herbal notes.
However, in several examples, I noticed a sharpness on the nose—VA (volatile acidity) that’s a bit too present, giving off acetone-like tones that detract from the overall clarity of the wine. This isn’t always the case, but enough to note.
Marselan, on the other hand, performs well here. It offers a nice mid-weight body, fine but present tannins, and attractive notes of dark berries, violets, and a slightly smoky edge. It seems to respond better to Ningxia’s growing conditions, delivering freshness alongside structure, even under the region’s intense heat and sun exposure. As noted earlier, Marselan continues to gain traction as China’s standout red.
Image Source: Wine with Margaret, showing some bottle images from tasted wines.
White wines are a much smaller category, and frankly, harder to come by. But among the few I did taste—Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, and a rather surprising Blanc de Noir from Malbec—there were some highlights. Chardonnay is made in both leaner and richer styles, depending on oak and winemaking choices, with notes of green apple, citrus, and sometimes that saline edge from the mineral soils. Petit Manseng shows promise for semi-sweet or late-harvest styles due to its natural acidity and sugar retention, although it's still early days. And the Rieslings they make here, they are of such a level, that it is worthwhile the try (and the money). I was lucky to have been served a flight of Riesling from China at the Concours, and they were of high quality—perhaps needing more terroir expression—but they show real promise, but since they are still stepping into the world of whites, it shows a promise where we can expect great things from them.
Sparkling wines are considered a niche market in China, and yet I had the opportunity to taste several sparkling wines. Of which Chandon’s sparkling wines for sure, most of them made from Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Pleasant acidity, although you might expect a little more acidity, but they made a style that can be liked by many, crowd pleasing for sure, and the aesthetics are pleasing to look at. Or sparkling wines that are turned into a spritzer to become your everyday drink to unwind.
Stylistically, Ningxia’s wines often strive to emulate the structure and ageability of Bordeaux, but a growing number of younger producers are taking a different route—focusing on freshness, transparency, and regional expression rather than mimicry. This shift is promising, especially with the emergence of lighter reds, natural wines, and sparkling wines that cater to a younger, more adventurous consumer base.
One of the most interesting elements is how the wines reflect the extreme terroir—high altitude, dramatic diurnal shifts, sandy-gravel soils, and arid conditions. These factors bring out concentrated fruit, firm tannins, and often an impressive backbone of acidity in well-made examples. But consistency is still a challenge, particularly at the lower and mid-tier levels.
Overall, Ningxia’s wines are showing ambition and identity. There’s no doubt the region can produce high-quality wines— but it’s no longer just about potential. The best producers are already delivering. As winemaking technique continues to improve, and more focus is placed on expressing place rather than following models, Ningxia may well become one of Asia’s most exciting and serious wine regions.
If that is true, I let you decide for yourself if that is really the case here, but to my opinion it is definitely a region to keep your eyes out for, it is genuinely as interesting as they say, and I have just tasted and seen a glimpse of it. Time will tell — and probably sooner than we think.
In the end, Ningxia is no longer just a curiosity—it’s a region in motion. From the buried vines to the bold wines, the desert has been reshaped by vision, labour, and an unshakable belief in what’s possible. I’ve only seen a glimpse of it, but what I’ve tasted, walked, and learned leaves no doubt: this is a place worth watching.
Whether you’re a student of wine, a traveller of landscapes, or simply someone who loves a good story in the glass, Ningxia offers something rare—raw potential that’s already coming to life. Time will tell just how far it can go. But if you ask me, that moment may come sooner than we think.
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📌 Note: This piece may also serve as a helpful supplement for WSET or Diploma-level wine studies, especially on emerging wine regions.